Mount Smuts 2938 m

Kananaskis Country, Alberta

Mount Smuts from meadows on west side. Route ascends righthand ridge.

Mount Smuts is an exciting scramble in Kananaskis Country and a comfortable day trip from Calgary. Of late, an ascent of the South Ridge has become something of a test-piece for scramblers. The lower part of the south ridge turns back many parties, but the route gets easier towards the top. This challenging ascent requires dry conditions and good weather is definitely preferable. There is no quick way off once you start up. If in doubt, take a climbing rope for belaying steep parts. A few fixed pins are in place on the route and you may be glad they are there.

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  Traipsing up rubble on the lower part of Mount Smuts.

A challenging beginning on the lower part of the mountain. About here, many people wonder about turning back or getting down.

The ridge presents a few awkward moves here and there, and that is why dry conditions are a necessity for scrambling up.

And a little exposure here...

Near the top the upper ridge of Mount Smuts eventually eases off. The view is spectacular view and it is straightforward scrambling, but you're not down yet. (Caution:66kb image file)

On the summit. Lookit all them mountains, Ma! The summer of 1998 was one of the driest in the Canadian Rockies for some 15 years. This September day  was a fine time to be on Mount Smuts. Mount Assiniboine rises at the centre of photo.

Descending via an alternate easier route. See Scrambles guidebook for details.

This ascent is just one of over 155 scrambles fully described in my guidebook, Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, which can be ordered online by clicking here.

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© all photos copyright by the author 1999.