North Goodsir 3525m
A year later, about mid-August, I returned again and our party of 3 climbed North Goodsir in a 3 day trip. From upper Zinc Creek, we ascended in the mature forest to the right of open avalanche slopes directly below "Middle" Goodsir, the 11,000' ridge between North and South Goodsirs. Camp was made high up by the last flat patches of green above treeline on open slopes. This is a convenient spot (though totally unprotected from weather, we discovered!) for a summit bid for North peak.
View of North Goodsir and normal route seen from South Goodsir. After all these years the red line will probably have weathered away. Crampons/axe were needed.
Here was our camp in late afternoon of day 1. The route goes straight up to the long snow gully, then left.
Early morning, after a 6am or so beginning, we are headed up to the lower leg of the sideways "V", a huge conspicuous marking of snow on ledges on the south face of North Goodsir.
Short-roped and ascending the upper leg of the "V" on North Goodsir. This part was mainly a 30-35 degree snow gully.
Above the gully, an exposed traverse with a move of about 5.3 or so (which Martin protected with a pin) goes under an overhang, then leads to scrambling and the summit, about 20 minutes farther.
Middle and South Goodsir form near the top of North Goodsir peak. Looks serious, I'd say.
View northwest from North Goodsir. The big glacier sits on the back side of Mount Vaux, but there is a non-glaciated route from Trans-Canada highway that we ascended in 1999.
From either North or South Goodsir may be possible to see Mount Assiniboine, although I'm not sure we did. Mount Sir Donald is more obvious since it is closer. We sure didn't see Mount Rainier though, or the Matterhorn for that matter.
To South Goodsir
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All photos copyright the author 1999