Mt Goodsir access via Beaverfoot Road
Beaverfoot logging road branches off Trans-Canada Highway several kms west of Field, B.C., about 1 km west of the west boundary of Yoho Park. It is a gravel road which immediately crosses railway tracks and a cluster of buildings where whitewater rafting trips on adjacent Kickinghorse River are offered.
Cross the train tracks and the Kickinghorse River and follow the gravel road south for 20.9 km, then turn left (onto Ice Main Rd) cross a bridge, then drive for an additional 3.5 km. Don't turn right onto Lower Ice Road, go straight. It is 24.4 km (total) from Beaverfoot Road turnoff, reach an open logged clear-cut. Park here. This is at GR 385622 by GPS. Regardless of what you read elsewhere, this is the way to Goodsirs and as of August 2001 is driveable. another approach described in Selected Alpine Climbs now lacks a key bridge, it having been burned...
The Goodsir Peaks are clearly visible to the north across the clear-cut towards Ice River. Hike across the clearcut towards the peaks and pick up the hiking trail that follows Ice River towards the Goodsirs. The trail deteriorates past the wardens cabin (about 1-2 hrs along). Major deadfall, now apparently being overgrown (Read: Hidden) by bush, obliterates the trail in one section past here. The continuing trail was flagged on the other side of this avalanche debris in 1991. When searching, remember that it resumes on the opposite side at about the same elevation as it was before disappearing in the avalanche debris.
The trail stays some distance above Ice River and as you approach Zinc Creek, you have to follow a trail up that creek. It is an old, partly overgrown, but man-made trail well above the stream in mature timber on the right side as you go up. You may be able to find it by walking up the second last or last open avalanche path that comes down across Ice River trail. Look for cairns if they haven't been wiped out. The flagging is probably gone by now.
If you stay on the Ice River Trail too long, it begins to descend to the level of the river, rather than stay 150 or so feet above it. Go back and head up the open avalanche slope, watching for cairns. Remember, the Zinc Creek trail is above the horrible alders in Zinc Creek. Its a wicked bushwhack if you're among them!
To climb the South peak, we followed the trail up Zinc Creek to a small gravelly clearing on the southeast side of the south peak from where we could see a small waterfall further less than 0.5 km up-valley. We tented there. Next day, initially, we ascended a wide gully right above camp to gain the main ridge. However, the further you go up Zinc Creek, the easier the terrain is on South Goodsir. In other words the easier terrain lies around to the right side of the peak, on the east side. We discovered that on descent.
For the North peak, on the way up Zinc Crk, we crossed the creek and ascended mature timber to the right of avalanche slopes that came down from beneath the high 11,000 foot unnamed point between N & S peaks. Once we got above the alders on this avalanche slope, we left the forest and hiked up to the last small, semi-level spot above treeline, close to (below) North Goodsir. This was in mid-August, water was nearby from snowmelt.
Not many people have climbed these big peaks even today; the bushwhacking in can be tedious if you don't find the trail(s). I suspect they'd make every American "Highpoints" peak seem easy, with the exception of Mt McKinley. August is the preferred time for the Goodsirs. Good luck, sir!
Suggested equipment: 50 metre 8.5 or 9 mm rope, a few pitons, (lost arrows, knifeblades), a few chocks, slings, ice axe. Crampons for the upper snow gully on North Goodsir.
These peaks are not scrambles, but neither are they long, technical routes. At least, not from Zinc Creek if you're a decent route-finder. If you're a sport climber, a wall rat, or haven't done a lot of big peaks in the Canadian Rockies on which to hone your route-finding skills, then these peaks will come as a real eye-opener to you.
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