Mount Assiniboine 3618 m
Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park, B.C.
The classic (helicopter) view of Assiniboine from Lake Magog
Click thumbnails to enlarge
Mount Assiniboine, also called the "Matterhorn of the Rockies" is the highest peak in the Southern Rockies. The R.C. Hind hut on the north side is the starting point for the two most popular routes, although it is a l-o-n-g walk in. You can also helicopter to nearby Assiniboine Lodge and save a full days' walk. The north ridge (5.5) from the Hind hut is an exciting alpine rock ascent, best done when dry. That usually takes until August. Most folks don't know it, but there is a less technical (near-scramble) route on Assiniboine's south side that merely diverges from the normal route up Lunette Peak. This was Assiniboine's first ascent route, and can be readily reached from Highway 93 in British Columbia. Click here for detailed approach info for Assiniboine's southern approach/climb.
Close-up view of standard North Ridge
route of Mount Assiniboine from near the R.C. Hind Hut. The typical approach from Spray
Lakes Reservoir is a long day's walk in via Bryant Creek. We cheated and helicoptered into
Assiniboine Lodge in late afternoon, then climbed to the hut above Lake Magog by evening
via the route called Gmoser's Ledges.
A fine day ahead, looking northwest
from Assiniboine.
After leaving the hut at 4:30 a.m.,
we have a fine early morning view from partway up the north ridge. My partners are
completely unaware of strange red halos surrounding them. We managed to get past the
few remaining snow patches without crampons, chopping a few steps as we moved steadily
upwards.
Going up the north ridge. So far,
we haven't needed to use crampons or chop steps as conditions are very dry. This is ideal
for the route.
Pausing for a break about 1/3 of the
way up Mount Assiniboine, early morning, early August. The peak left of centre is The
Marshall.
Looking southeast towards Mount
Eon from halfway up Assiniboine. There are other fine peaks in this area that see very few
ascents (Like Mount Eon). Today looks like perfect weather for the climb; no point
in rushing.
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